Tuff Stuff FAQ

Run a wire from the battery terminal on the alternator to the positive terminal on the battery. You may also consider running the wire to the starter solenoid (main lug). Your battery cable is connected to this lug. This may hide the charge wire for a cleaner look.

One wire alternators will simplify your build up. If you are starting a project from scratch, then there is no longer a need for the messy wiring harness from an externally mounted fender wall regulator In many instances you can remove your existing external regulator and harness and replace it with a one wire. One wire alternators can be purchased for GM, Ford and Mopar applications. Please note: If your vehicle was originally equipped with a dash indicator lamp in some GM applications it will be necessary to remove the black rubber regulator cover and plug in your existing two spade plug. This procedure can be performed when installing our models 7127, 7139 and 7140.

Tuff Stuff’s 40 years of experience have enabled us to develop alternator internal components that will keep your battery charged at a crawl. No other manufacturer in the industry has been able to produce more amps at low RPM’s than us. There is no need to worry about the use of underdrive pulley systems or ignition regulator turn on with the use of a Tuff Stuff one wire alternator.

We have tested our alternators through the most rigorous conditions and there is no proven fact that we have been able to produce, that will support this rumor.

The sky is the limit. The more amperage the better. As long as the alternator can fit into your brackets, you can put any size alternator on your vehicle. The voltage regulator will control the amount of amperage that the battery needs to run your accessories. Please Note: It is imperative that you increase the size of your charge wire if you are upgrading to a higher amp alternator. Insufficient wire gauge size can cause fire due to heat created by resistance.

No. Tuff Stuff alternators are bi-directional and will work properly if installed on the left or right side of the engine or with serpentine or “V” groove pulley systems.

If you have access to a multi meter, (can be bought for $10.00) turn the dial to DCV. Hold the black probe on the negative battery terminal and the red probe on the right. With the vehicle’s engine running, the battery voltage should read between 13.5 and 14 volts. Battery voltage without the engine running should read 12.6 volts.

This could mean that your starter needs shimming. There are different methods of shimming a starter, depending on which direction the starter needs to be adjusted. If the starter to ring gear tolerance is too tight, you will need to shim the starter away from the ring gear. If the tolerance is loose, your ring gear may be worn or defective. Our industry has become familiar with brand new defective aftermarket flywheels. Don’t rule this out as a possible cause. If the model #6584 or #6772 pinion is engaging in too far, the washer shim may need to be installed behind the mounting block. Refer to installation instructions (supplied with your new starter) for tolerances.

The “R” terminal sends 12V to the coil when a ballast resistor is part of your ignition system. In most cases the “R” terminal connection can be discarded. The gear reduction starter motor draws half the amperage of the full size starter, therefore it’s not robbing the engine’s spark. You may also want to consider upgrading to a modern ignition system that does not consist of a ballast resistor.

This is common with full size starters. Excessive heat against the starter solenoid builds resistance in the coil .There are a few solutions for this problem. (1) You can install our Model #7629 hot start kit. (2) Install a heat shield on the solenoid. (3) Replace your full size starter with a gear reduction. The smaller body and variable clocking provides more clearance between the exhaust and the starter solenoid.

Refer to the first paragraph in this section. (whining and grinding noise) These can all be factors. If you are not installing the starter with original equipment bolts the starter will become loose causing misalignment. Install with Tuff Stuff #7623 knurled starter bolts. Backfire while starting causes backlash which creates sudden excessive impact to the aluminum casting. If your engine is not tuned properly do not continue to crank your engine until your timing is set. The Hitachi style gear reduction starters have a solid mounting block and pinion that will withstand backfire better than the full size starter. Full size starters are not recommended for high compression engines.

No, at Tuff Stuff we currently carry pumps that are valved at 1200-PSI and at 850-PSI. Most applications will accept the 1200-PSI pump, with exception of the Mustang II rack, which uses an 850 PSI valve. 850 PSI valves are sold separately or you can buy a Tuff Stuff #6174A or 6174B Saginaw style pump that is factory set to 850 PSI.

Most early vehicle pumps came with a keyed pulley which was nut retained. Most late vehicles were revised to a press fit pulley. The nut retained style pulley can be easily removed and reinstalled. Once the press fit pulley is installed, it is not recommended to remove it and reinstall it because the pulley I.D. becomes stretched and it may slide off the shaft. Car builders prefer the universal keyway fit #6176A because of its flexibility.

Use a high quality, brand name Power Steering Fluid that can be purchased at your local auto parts store.

There are two differences between these pumps. The SAE pumps use a flared fitting for the pressure line and the mounting bolts are Standard American Equipment. The metric pumps use an O-ring.

Tuff Stuff has a wide variety of power steering pump mounting bracket kits for both the Saginaw and Type II pumps. The brackets are laser cut from ¼” steel plate and are available in either chrome plated or a variety of powder coated colors and are complete with fasteners.

Engines that have been modified for more horsepower generally run hotter than stock engines. SuperCool water pumps are designed to provide 30% more flow. If combined with the proper thermostat and radiator, your engines overheating can be resolved.

If you are ordering a water pump by application, you will be certain that the water pump will be an exact replacement for your vehicle. In this case you need not worry about whether it is a reverse flow. If you are building an engine or upgrading from a “V” belt pulley to serpentine, you need to assess your situation. Most serpentine systems require a reverse water pump. You can determine this by how the belt travels around the water pump pulley. If the back of the serpentine belt travels around the water pump pulley you will require a reverse water pump. If the inside of the belt travels on the water pump pulley you will require a standard rotation water pump. Most pulley and bracket manufacturers can tell you what style of water pump you need for their system.

Some water pumps are available as aluminum rather than cast iron. Aluminum pumps are much lighter than cast iron and can be polished to a high luster without rusting.

Measure from the top fan hub surface to the water pump mounting surface The industry term for measuring a water pump height is the “hub height”. The hub height is a critical belt alignment dimension determining where the water pump pulley belt groove(s) fall in relation to your crank, alternator, power steering pump and air conditioning pulley grooves. The dimension from the mounting gasket surface to the outside face of the hub (where the pulley is bolted) is the hub height. It is especially helpful to know what the hub height dimension is to determine if your Chevy water pump is a long or a short style. A long or short water pump may be used on any Chevy V8 (Gen I SB - Gen II BB) engine as long as the correct pulleys are used and the belts are in alignment. In the catalog “water pump” section you will find the hub height next to each model. Never attempt to press or pull the hub to change its dimension. This may result in an unbalanced fan blade that can explode the pump causing serious injury!

Dual diaphragm booster provide more power assist to the brakes.

Your original booster may have had a bracket already attached to it. If you wish to install one of our universal boosters (#2221, #2222, #2223, #2224, #2231), then you may need to install a bracket (#4650, #4651, #4652) to most closely match your original booster setup or needs.

There is always a chance that you will have to make some modifications when installing a universal brake booster. Normally the pedal rod length will have to be adjusted and that is why purchasing a pedal rod extension kit (Tuff Stuff #4750) is always a wise choice.

Yes, when converting to power brakes you must use a proportioning valve (#2301, #2302, #2303). They come complete with bracket and the lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve.

In this case you will have to check that you are producing at least 18” of vacuum. Your system may require a vacuum assist pump if your vacuum is inadequate, causing a hard pedal.

It all depends on the brakes you are running. If you are using a factory disc/disc application then you would use a 1-1/8” bore master cylinder, but if they are aftermarket calipers you would use a 1” bore master cylinder. Aftermarket calipers are bigger than original equipment and require more pressure to open. In most cases with disc/drum applications on earlier models you would use a 1” bore master cylinder. There are always exceptions when building a street rod. Tuff Stuff technicians can guide you through the process of ordering the proper brake booster and master cylinder to complete your project.

We build our dual ported master cylinder so you can redirect your brake lines from the opposite side of the master cylinder. The ports on the other side of the master cylinder are then plugged.

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